Hanging with Hamburgers in Hamburg (10/30/03)
Last updated 11/17/03
In all honesty, our stop in Hamburg (Germany) was entirely out of
necessity and not out of any desire to see the city. You see our next
destination after Bergen (Norway) via Oslo was Amsterdam, but that
would involve too much travelling (we already had one overnight train
and still didn't arrive in Hamburg until well into the night), so we
decided to stop at the most "convenient", large destination, which
happened to be Hamburg. Probably one of the the coolest things about
Hamburg was the actual train journey there which involv ed two
first-time experiences for yours truly, so I'll start out with that and
then mention the sights and sounds of Hamburg itself.
One first-time experience for me was an overnight train, which involved
a double-bunk compartment for me and Daria on our return trip from
Bergen. The compartment was nice (if somewhat cramped) and even had a
sink with water (not potable) in the compartment itself. I think I read
somewhere that they have super nice trains in Europe where you can get
"luxury" compartments that run well over $150 bucks, that offer things
like a shower and a toilet, but no such options on our train. Being the
gentleman I offered to take the top-bunk which offered a fun experience
of climbing to the bunk monkey-style using a ladder that came out of
the wall (I'm an only child so I never had the whole bunk bed
experience as a kid). When you're on the top bunk you're pretty worried
about falling off, especially given the way that the train lists and
has a tendency to stop suddenly -- and quite hard as well. So they got
these little harness thingies that are about a foot high and are
connected to the ceiling with a seatbelt -- that way there's a little
barrier that extends from the bottom of the bunk and *should* prevent
you from falling about 6 feet during your sleep. It seemed to work for
me though I got much less sleep than I would've liked on the train due
to odd train noises and the motion of the train. That and I was
constantly worried that I would end up being a statistic -- one of the
only 2% or so of people who die in train accidents in Europe each year
(made up figure, but you get the point). That thought combined with
periodic, loud train whistles made for a long night. The other
experience was actually pretty neat for a techie like me. During the
leg of our journey from Sweden (name of town in Sweden is forgotten) to
Copenhagen we got an incredible treat -- Internet access during the
train journey for about $10 for the duration of the trip (about 4 hours
or so). This was in addition to a pretty nice, hot meal served with
wine and all that -- probably the only time that I felt that the
first-class "supplement" that they charge you (in addition to the
ticket itself) was probably justified. So here we are on this really
nice train going at about 180km/hr and I get to surf the whole while at
about 60-80kbps (my connection was 802.11 for interested parties,
though they had some sort of D-Link box that would connect to your
laptop via a serial connection if you didn't have a WiFi card). To
compare the experience to our current trains in France is like
comparing a rickshaw to a ride in a BMW (most of the French trains
don't allow you to use the restroom at the station because they simply
jettison stuff to the tracks, so you can imagine the differences...).
On arrival to Hamburg, we didn't have any idea how to actually get to
the B&B where we were staying for the night. Fortunately, on our
trip from Copenhagen to Hamburg we met a nice travel companion, John (I
hope I got the name right, still waiting for an e-mail response), an
American who had studied at a university in Hamburg, who along with his
German host actually drove us to the B&B and performed
introductions for us. We are still grateful for this random act of
senseless kindness. As it turns out, our B&B host, Stephanie, was
actually out of town for a Robbie Williams (never heard anything by
him, or even of him before this incident) concert and instead we met
one of her roommates, a guy named Andrei, who actually turned out to be
Russian (at least born and raised in Russia) IT professional, thus
making conversation (and conversation topics) much easier. Stephanie
turned out to be very well travelled and had wonderful and interesting
African decor throughout the apartment (see pics below) -- it was kinda
like walking through Pier 1 back in the States, but here you knew that
most things were probably coming directly from Africa (or they could
actually *be* from Peir 1, what do I know?).
The main sight that we saw in Hamburg was the City Hall, which turned
out to be very impressive! I mean it looked more like a royal palace
than a city hall, and much foreign royalty had been received in
this building. Most of the doors had inlaid bronze and were highly
decorative, while the wallpaper was engraved leather and the columns
were Italian marble (only the finest stuff for these civil servants).
They don't make buildings like this anymore -- and for good reason too,
if I heard that my tax dollars were going toward Italian marble and
bronze door fixtures, I'd do my part to make sure those officials
didn't make it back into office!
Pictures
Some images from the B&B that we stayed at in Hamburg.
Though we did not get to meet the owner (Stefanie) who was gone to a
Robbie Williams concert, we got to appreciate her fine sense of
interior decor (tons of cool African items -- she seems to have
travelled that part of the world) and the crazy cat (Katinka) who lived
in the house.
Some of the sights of Hamburg's City Hall. We took a 45 minute guided
tour of the building which is fairly lavish on the inside as shown
above -- everything from brass fixtures to wallpaper made of engraved
leather, this was one impressive building.
Some additional sights from Hamburg. The statue shown above was just
one of several like it all throughout the downtown area -- they all
looked the same in size and shape, but each was painted differently
much like the Buddy Bears in Berlin. And what European page would be
complete without a picture of some pretty church that we stumbled
across?